Showing posts with label Furniture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Furniture. Show all posts

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Antique Rattan Furniture Collectors - 1870s to 1930s

Antique Rattan furniture evokes contradictory impressions: Casual, but Victorian-formal; Classic, but linked to the 19th century; Ephemeral, but timeless. Today, reactions to rattan furniture range from those owners who can’t wait to get rid of “that old stuff” to furniture collectors who cheerfully troop through endless yard sales to find treasured pieces.



Rattan furniture itself can range from battered, half-broken painted thrift store junk to pristine museum-grade furniture displayed in a place of honor. What makes collecting and owning antique and vintage rattan furniture so interesting, and occasionally frustrating, is the vague history of this class of collectibles. Almost every attempt at defining this class of furniture, first gives a quick bow to ancient Egypt (tomb pieces dating to 3,000 BC), before launching into 1930's Art Deco styles.


There’s a lot of vintage & antique rattan furniture that was produced between those dates, and much of it is still there, ready to be discovered. Indonesia (particularly Borneo), the Philippines, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh account for the bulk of the world’s production. The wood is solid, unlike bamboo, which is hollow, but it does have section joints.

Larger pieces have been used for Malacca canes, beloved of London gentlemen, for centuries. It is the bark stripped from the canes, however, which was soaked and woven into wicker pieces. This bark was also used to wrap around wood (often the stripped core of the original rattan) to make frames, legs and backs.
Because rattan is so flexible, it can be bent and shaped into ornate designs, which fitted the Victorian sensibilities exactly.

A quick break in the story, here, to talk about wicker. The term “wicker” just describes any woven furniture, usually made from plant materials. A wicker piece can be made from bamboo, rush or even straw. So, rattan furniture is a type of wicker, but not all wicker is rattan.

Although it was used to make furniture in India and China, it was the building of the British Empire in India and Malaya during the early 19th century which really brought rattan furniture to the notice of the British, and later the Americans, who lived and traded in Asia.

They came to love it. And why not? It could easily be woven into almost any style, it was light and cool – perfect for the tropics – and it was cheap. Very, very cheap.

The Wakefield Rattan Company began to produce rattan furniture and sell it all over the United States, where it was soon finding its way to the conservatories, porches and summer parlors of the rich and the well to do.


In the 1830's it was a fad; by the 1850's it was a boom; by 1900, it was as common to find rattan furniture in a home as it was to see a cast iron kitchen stove there. Although there were other manufacturers, Wakefield was the largest. In fact, it absorbed its largest competitor, the Heywood Company, in 1897.

The manufactured range of wicker furniture (most of it still rattan) was tremendous, and included chairs, tables, love seats, beds and even wheeled chairs used on the boardwalks of popular resort towns such as Atlantic City.

By the beginning of the 20th century, however, tastes began to change and Victorian styles went out of fashion. The Heywood-Wakefield Company, as it was now named, then began to produce wicker furniture in what was called the “Mission style,” but the classic age of rattan ended during the Great Depression.

And another blip in the record during the 1970s when a style sometimes referred to as “Tiki Bar” was made.
Aside from those, post 1930s rattan furniture has primarily relied on reproducing pieces from the 19th century, much of it using synthetic reeds. Almost all of the modern pieces made from genuine rattan have been made in Asia, often the Philippines.


Today's antique furniture collectors now concentrate on rattan pieces made during the period 1870-1930. They face the usual challenges of all antique collectors, no matter what is being discussed: repairs, restorations, reproductions and fakes. For rattan furniture collectors, add to that the problem of the material itself.

Is it really rattan? Are other materials mixed in, either during production or afterwards. When was a repair made? It takes experience and careful examination to tell, sometimes. Some collectors are willing to buy pieces which have been carefully repaired, but eschew extensive restorations. Others firmly draw the line at painted pieces, but who can tell when it was painted? Is a rattan chair painted in 1880 less antique?

Other collectors depend on contemporary advertisements or catalogues for identification of genuine pieces, but that might leave out a short-run production or even a custom-made piece. The latter, while harder to identify and authenticate, could be quite valuable.


As you would expect, however, their prices are set at a premium. There are still undiscovered antique rattan furniture pieces out there, but they are becoming more and more difficult to find. What pieces are found in the yard sale jungle have to be considered with a jaundiced eye; they might be genuine, or they might be a reproduction.

Even if the style matches a catalogue from the 1890s, for example, it might be a recently-imported piece from Asia. Without a sure way to judge the age or an article of provenance, it’s often difficult to tell.
You see the problem, of course. But, many would say that this is part of the challenge, even the joy, of collecting antique rattan furniture.

Using a discerning eye, some common sense, a few good reference books and sometimes, just taking a leap of faith is all part of the great collecting game.

View the original article here

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Caring for Antique Furniture | Tips on the Care and Repair of Antique Furniture.

A surface patina, even if it is marked and damaged, contributes to the character, authenticity and value of a piece of antique furniture and you should aim to preserve it.


If restoration is necessary, the original finish should be matched as closely as possible. French polishing or the tough synthetic varnishes of the 20th century should never be used to replace wax or shellac.

Oil or beeswax polishes are the most common finishes on 16th and 17th century furniture and on oak and country furniture up until the 19th century. These are more resistant to minor bruises and spills than varnish or lacquer.

Resin and shellac varnishes were used on fine furniture from the end of the 17th century and like lacquered and japanned finishes are spirit-based. They can be marked by solvents such as alcohol, as well as by heat, damp and abrasives.


French polishing, introduced in the early 1820s, involves a method of applying shellac that achieves a high-gloss finish with less effort; but it is less durable and prone to chip. Newly applied French polish is particularly vulnerable as it can take up to six months to harden completely.

Graining and ebonising, are where a surface is stained to resemble an exotic wood and you can wear this effect away with too much rubbing.

Veneered furniture is particularly vulnerable to dry or damp conditions, or if water or polish seeps beneath the surface skin and causes the veneer to buckle, lift or split.

Inlaid finishes such as marquetry and boulle are even more sensitive as the materials used can react to heat and humidity at different rates, resulting in uneven stress over the whole surface.

Waxing antique furniture

All sealed wooden surfaces can be waxed to bring out the colour and grain of the wood and to provide protection against staining, but over waxing will actually cause dullness.

Furniture that has been waxed and polished for years should only need buffing with a chamois leather or duster, and then waxing once every few months.

Solvents used in furniture polishes, especially the spray polishes, can leave a whitish bloom on some surfaces or gradually dissolve lacquered finishes. They should not be used on any lacquered surface and only sparingly on wax.

A microcrystalline wax is the best medium for giving a light, protective and burnishable coating to most surfaces, including ebonised wood, lacquer and French polish.

Apply the wax over an area about 1ft (30cm) square at a time, burnishing with a soft clean cloth as it dries. Use a soft-bristled brush for carved surfaces, making sure you leave no surplus polish in the crevices.

Brass mounts, such as handles and other fittings don't have to be ultra-bright on antique furniture; light burnishing as you dust is adequate, or buff with a long-term silver cloth. Metal cleaners should not be used as they can harm the wood around the mounts.


The gold finish on ormolu is very delicate and should never be polished, even with a dry cloth, and especially not with cleaning fluid.

Fingerprints, which are acidic, can damage the gilding.

In time the brass or bronze base corrodes, giving the finish a spotty, then black appearance. The mounts can be lacquered but even this will fail in time.

Other than dusting ormolu gently and regularly with a soft brush there is little else to do; never have it regilded if you want to retain the value.

Water-based gilding remains water soluble and should only ever be dusted, whereas oil gilding may be cleaned by gently dabbing with slightly damped cotton wool.

Water gilding is applied over layers of gesso and is a yellow or dark red. It may be burnished to a high shine, although some pieces may have areas that are meant to be left matt.

Oil gilding is sometimes applied directly onto wood and has a matt finish.

Chips in a gilded surface can be filled with fine surface filler and disguised with yellow ochre, watercolour paint. Avoid using gold metallic paint for areas of any size, as it clashes with the true gilding.

A professional guilders aim will be to match the original techniques and materials, and to retain as much of the original surface and patina as possible.

Upholstered antique furniture must be vacuumed regularly to guard against a build up of dust and pests, if necessary use a fine mesh net stocking over the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner to prevent any loose pieces being irretrievably sucked off.


However, on some seat furniture, upholstery can be re-webbed or re-stuffed, or the fabric replaced with a sympathetic alternative, without detracting from the value of the piece.

If re-upholstering drop in seats always make sure you return the seats to the original chairs and make sure the new covering isn't so tight that it strains the leg joints.


Adult furniture beetles and pinhole beetles lay eggs in crevices in wood. The eggs hatch into larvae (woodworm) which eat into the wood and leave tunnels some 1mm in diameter. They eventually emerge as beetles and fly away between May and August.


Treatment
Check and treat any new purchase before taking it into your home, and check any wooden objects twice a year for infestation – especially bare and softwood surfaces such as the inside of drawers or backboards.

Upholstered or particularly delicate furniture should be professionally fumigated, but on other items, a good quality, clear, low-odour woodworm fluid can be applied by yourself at home.

Remove any detachable upholstered parts and only treat the unfinished surfaces of the wood. The solvent in the fluid will damage waxed, polished, varnished, lacquered or painted surfaces.

Carefully inject the insecticide, using a hypodermic syringe and needle to reach deep into the holes. If unsure or not confident this should be left to an expert or consevation specialist.

After treating, fill the holes with a soft inert wax and blend in with the surrounding wood.

Unlike many other antiques, which can be devalued by restoration, a piece of furniture that has been sympathetically and honestly restored into usable condition, using traditional methods and materials, can be worth more than a damaged item.

Make sure, if you do make minor repairs yourself, to only ever use water-soluble glue Almost all furniture made before the mid-20th century depends on well-jointed solid timber for strength, so weakness in joints, pivots, moving parts, or on load-bearing surfaces, or signs of rot or woodworm, must be fixed before the piece is used again.

Use a professional furniture restorer to reinforce or replace rotten or wormed timber with sound wood, saturate it with resin or fill it with a mixture of animal glue and sawdust. Cure sticking doors or drawers by easing with a touch of candle wax. If they are misshapen, they need to be trimmed by an expert. Chipped or lifted veneer should be professionally repaired as soon as possible, but exposed edges can be temporarily protected with masking tape and detached pieces kept in a plastic bag. If stripping is necessary and will not remove a valuable patina, it should be done by a professional furniture restorerer. Acid stripping swells and rots wood fibres. Dry, cracked leather on desk tops can be revitalised with a lanolin and beeswax preparation such as Connolly’s Hide Food. Make sure you spot test the dressing on an inconspicuous area; if it leaves no stain, then apply it sparingly with a soft cloth. Then allow the dressing to absorb (for around 24 hours) before gently buffing with a clean duster.

View the original article here

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

High Antique Furniture Values Are Big Business

Antique furniture values are the whole basis for pricing purpose within the antique furniture business. Old collectible items are considered antiques. The factors to be considered are the age, beauty, rarity, condition, utility, personal emotional connection, and other unique features of an item. Any antique object is a representative of the past, a period of human society. Antiques are valued for their worth. Everyday furniture of previous generations is antique now.

Furniture are movable pieces of objects humans used, and are continually being used, to support basic activities such as seating and sleeping. There are a number of furniture types. Movable objects at home and working areas are considered furniture. These are the tables, chairs, beds, desks, dressers, cupboards, and other similar items.

The antique furniture values refer to the worth of these pieces or objects when sold and bought. The business of buying and selling antiques is a very lucrative one. The proceeds in the buying and selling of old furniture are high. The antique furniture values are getting higher as time passes by. Most antique objects, not only furniture, are getting more valuable as time goes on.

Wealthy individuals have the resources to buy old furniture. They have the sole intention of buying the antique items and afterwards selling the same for higher prices. Other rich people who may have historical and sentimental notions are also bent on buying old furniture, as family possessions and not for resale. These are some reasons that antique furniture values are getting higher.

Investing in antique furniture is a good business move. Collecting of antique objects is a hobby at the start but can prove to be a good business decision in the end. If there is available capital to invest in the business of buying and selling old furniture, place the available resources with no hesitations. It can prove to be an excellent income earner.

The business involving antique items can be profitable in the future. Furniture is one of the movable objects included in the valuable business of antique buying and selling. Investors in the business of buying and selling old furniture are not risking their money. Investments are getting more valuable as times move on.

The antique pieces of furniture are getting more valuable as time passes. This is the case even if there are no buyers at the time of purchase or thereabout. The items for sale are gaining in value even if there are no takers. Unlike other items on sale that are getting less valuable as time passes. Antiques are getting more expensive instead of depreciating in their worth in monetary value as time goes on.

People with both historical perspective and financial resources are aware that investment in any antique is a potential big income earner. Collecting antique furniture requires an amount of money not available to all. The antique furniture values are being increased as time passes by. Those persons with financial resources are making big business in the antique furniture buy and sell transactions. A hobby is transformed into a business, not an ordinary kind of business.

Brian is an antiques publisher. For more great tips on antique furniture values, visit http://www.antiquinginformation.info/


View the original article here

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Professional Tips On How to Identify Antique Reproduction Furniture

Antique furniture is currently seeing a great upsurge of interest and many people are hunting for beautiful antiques to display in their home, so this means that the fakers are producing as much reproduction furniture as possible.

Before you buy, I really recommend that you do a short course to learn some antique hunting secrets and how to tell if you have an antique. Otherwise, you could waste a lot of money on something that was made this year!

To get you started, here are my professional tips on checking whether a piece is ancient or modern.


Colour and odour
One obvious sign that a piece of wooden furniture is a fake is a very even colour, with smooth rounded corners and modern screws. Look out for black patches caused by ancient watermarks on the top of a table or chest of drawers, because this can indicate that a previous owner decorated it with a plant.

One thing that is very hard to disguise is the smell of newly cut wood. Take a good sniff of the furniture because there is a great difference in the smell of an antique and a fake.


Imperfections
Remember that a true antique was made more than a hundred years ago, so look for imperfections and signs of age. For instance, a new piece will have a flat, smooth surface on top, whereas an antique could have aging like boards that are warped and coming away from the seams.

In particular, you should check the corners for nicks and other damage caused by moving house a couple of times in the past. If you see wormholes, check them closely to be sure they have not been done with an electric drill.


Hardware
Look for imperfections because an antique will have handles that are slightly different from each other. In addition, screw heads should have a single slot in a really old piece of furniture.

Square nails and wormholes are often found in genuine antiques, but sometimes the maker has used genuine, antique nails and old wood to cobble together a fake, so look very carefully.


Refinishing drips
To check if a real antique has been refinished, turn the piece upside down and look for the tell-tale drips of colour or varnish. This is important because a refinished antique is worth far less than an antique in its original state.


Appraisal
If possible, have a professional appraise the item, but only pay the flat fee for one item at a time. Obviously, if you agree to pay a percentage of the antique's appraised value, the appraiser may give you an inflated price to increase his percentage.

If you can find a short course on antiques, I highly recommend that you spend a little time finding out some of the many antique hunting secrets that will save you losing money on a fake and make your hobby so much more enjoyable!

Trevor Rosper is an antique hunting enthusiast, and enjoys helping others starting out in this amazing hobby. He highly really recommends that you do a short course to learn some antique hunting secrets and how to tell if you have an antique or a reproduction furniture item.

View the original article here